Joan In Reims

Our first French adventure started with five days in Paris. Elliot suffered a bout of vertigo on our second day in the city of light. He soldiered on nobly but refused to drive out of the city. We picked up the car at the rental agent just north of the Arc de Triomphe at the Etoile. The traffic was stupefying. I spotted a huge tractor trailer truck and followed it closely onto the perferique or beltway out of the city and we were launched.

An hour or so into the countryside and there was a clumpha clumpa sound emanating from the car. Elliot informed me I had a flat. Of course I had the flat as I was driving. We stopped and I searched the manual for the jack (le cric) and the spare tire (le pneu). The one was hidden under the bonnet which I couldn't open and the other was just hidden. A kindly motorist stopped and found the aforementioned items and wished us luck. We needed more than luck as the lug nuts were tightened beyond our ability to dislodge them. I stood on the roadway and waved at on-coming traffic. A grand routier an over the road truck driver stopped changed the tire wished us well would take no tip and was on his way, as were we.

We arrived in Reims at the car rental agent in time to dump the car have lunch and visit the great cathedral. It was here that Joan dragged the unwilling Dauphin for his investiture as King of France. As they progressed from Bourges eastward one town after another surrendered and offered the keys of the city to their heroine Joan, la Pucelle, and by exrension to Charles. Joan was anxious that Charles be anointed at Reims as traditionally all French kings were invested here and this would make him the legitimate king, as opposed to Henry VI th boy-king of England who claimed the throne for the invaders.

In the fifteenth century the cathedral was almost three hundred years old, except for the spires whch were added later, quite complete in its Gothic majesty. I never go into a medieval Gothic cathedral without wondering how did they do it. To create such an edifice from stone and glass with their bare hands and hand tools was a true miracle.

Charles complained that the anointing oil was rancid. This was probably true as legend held it was the same flask which held the oil for Charlemagne's investiture. He also muttered about the weight of the robes. The cathedral was full of knights and barons and dignitaries. Joan stood next to the Dauphin dressed in full armor and carrying her banner which had painted on it Jehus Maria.

The oath was administered flocks of doves were released and the crowd yelled Noel! Noel!. France once again had a king.

We went on to visit the Champagne caves.